An Eating Tradition: The Old Place

You could stand on a corner and look around until a restaurant sign draws you in. But we've got a better idea. Each week, Agoura Hills Patch picks a great restaurant either in a town or nearby that is worth checking out.

Here's this week's choice:

Overview: Nestled along Mullholland Highway, this historic restaurant has reopened with a larger menu than the traditional clams, steak, baked potatoes and stew on Sunday. When Tom Runyon moved from New York to Hollywood some 70 years ago, he fell in love with the Santa Monica Mountains and his wife, Barbara. They took over the former Hank's Country Store, turning it into The Old Place, which they ran for more than 40 years. The restaurant was situated near Malibou Lake, not far from the location sets of TV's Dr. Quinn, Medicine Woman and M*A*S*H. 

When Runyon died in 2009 at the age of 89, his son Morgan took on the restaurant as a tribute to his father. The Old Place is open Thursday through Sunday for dinner. Make sure to check out its brunch, served on the weekends from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Decor: The atmosphere harkens back to a time gone by, and you'll feel like you've entered an old Western saloon with John Wayne or Gene Autry about to walk in at any minute. This little restaurant has limited seating: five booths and three tables. Their giant bar, also a dining table, runs down the center of the restaurant. Seating is on a first-come, first-served basis.

Drinks: The restaurant has an assortment of wines from all over California. Looking for a drink while you wait for a table? Go to the Cornell Winery & Tasting Room next door. Beers are served in "true pints" for $6. On draft are Craftsman 1903 Pre-Prohibition Lager; Racer 5IPA; Taps "Irish Red," and Anchor Porter. Look for a variety of bottled beers. You can also enjoy a Dad's Root Beer ($3), Reed's Ginger Brew ($3) and Bubble Up ($3).

Appetizers: Diners are encouraged to have the Old Place Steamed Clams ($17) as the traditional start to their meal. The Cheese & Cured Meat Plate ($16) is great if you are looking for a light snack with some wine or a beer. Try the Old Fashioned Creamed Corn ($6) or the Carmelized Brussels Sprouts with Apple & Bacon ($7). Rounding out their selection of appetizers are the Noodle & Cheese Bake ($7), with which in my opinion you can't go wrong; the Seafood Chowder ($8); the Wild Mushroom Skillet ($12); and Sauteed Spinach ($6) with cranberry and garlic.   

Entrees: The Black Angus Sirloin ($19), oak grilled with a baked potato, was Runyon's speciality, making it a must-try. The Wild Rosemary Pale Aled Chicken ($19) has become the newest popular item on the menu. Chef runs the kitchen, so be sure to look for that day's Special Chef Selection, which could be exotic meats like venison, elk or wild boar. From the Channel Islands comes the Special Fish of the Day, including halibut, sea bass, cod or lobster. The Old Place Beef Stew ($16) is another traditional menu item, though it is served every night now, instead of just Sundays, with a baked potato. You can get a Grilled Vegetable Salad ($14) with chicken or steak added, with olive oil & citrus dressing. The last entree is an Oak Grilled Chicken and Chantrelles Pot Pie ($18) with mashed potatoes, the ultimate comfort food.

Dessert: They had me at their Cast Iron Chocolate Chip Cookie ($8) topped with hand-whipped cream. (I love the use of the skillet—rustic!). You will not be disappointed with the Homemade Fruit Cobbler ($8) or Chocolate Lava Cake ($8). Look for a specialty dessert of the day, along with the Cast Iron Apple Crisp ($8).

Service: This is a low-key restaurant that has prided itself on quality since the day the doors were opened. All they ask for is a little respect, and they give it right back. That's the motto of this spot!

Signature: Steamed Clams, Sirloin Steak, Beef Stew. 

Address: 29983 Mullholland Hwy., Agoura Hills.

Cost: $$